Change of Plans

“Because of the uncertainty and fluidity surrounding the political process that is playing out in Egypt, coupled with other issues related to student safety in the run-up to the parliamentary elections that will take place in November, we have decided to cancel the 2011 fall program in Cairo…..”

With this one sentence, which I received in an e-mail from the Amideast powers-that-be in Washington, my aspirations of studying abroad in Egypt during arguably the most exciting time in the country’s history, were dashed. Despite obvious safety concerns, I can’t say I wasn’t crushed. Meanwhile I was faced with the decision of where to spend the upcoming semester instead of Cairo. My options were two other Middle Eastern countries that the US State Department deems at least incrementally more stable at the moment: Morocco or Jordan??

One of my main goals for the next few months is to immerse myself in the Arabic language so as to comfortably ‘get by’ in the Arab world (getting a taxi, haggling without being ripped off, talking to cute Arab guys – you know, just the essentials.) The Moroccan dialect is very distinct and not widely understood elsewhere in the Middle East, so I didn’t think it would be the most strategic place to study Arabic. Other factors drove me to the Hashemite Monarchy of Jordan, however. Located northwest of the massive Saudi Arabia, between Israel (to the west) and Iraq, Jordan is smack-dab in the heart of the Arab World and thus in prime real estate to play a pivotal role in the region’s political and social landscape. Whether its sheltering Syrian refugees fleeing the brutal crackdown of the Assad regime, or exerting its influence in the ongoing Israeli-Palestinian conflict (Jordan itself has a large internal Palestinian population) or upholding its status as a Western ally (although recent protests and ensuing reforms may alter this historically cozy relationship hmm…) Jordan seems to be a key player in the area. Amman appealed to me as a unique base from which to observe the current changes sweeping across the Arab world .

Now its just a matter of brushing the dust from my Al-Kitaab language book, packing my probably oversized suitcase, and beginning the countdown til I move-in to an apartment in Amman with other American students on September 4^th! Can't Wait!

The Seeds of Change??

While certainly not dramatic enough to rival the cataclysmic events in Tunisia and Egypt - the Arab Spring has definitely come to Jordan. Last January, thousands of Jordanians began holding weekly demonstrations in Amman and other cities to protest government corruption, rising prices, widespread poverty, and high unemployment rates in the Hashemite Monarchy. Responding to his dissatisfied people, King Abdallah replaced the prime minister with supposed reformer Marouf al-Bakhit. Also, in June, Abdallah announced that future cabinet members would be approved by parliament instead of by royal decree, thus satisfying a key demand of the protesters.

Unappeased, the marches have continued as many citizens are calling for political and constitutional reforms. Apparently, most of the protests happen after Friday afternoon prayers, led in large part by leftist and youth groups like the Islamic Action Front (IAF), the country's Muslim Brotherhood affiliate. Amideast sent us an e-mail regarding the protests that described them as mostly peaceful, with some minor violence: “One anti-government protester was killed and dozens more wounded March 26 in central Amman after regime loyalists attacked a protest sit-in. Additionally, on July 15, at least 15 people were injured in Amman after security forces forcefully dispersed protesters attempting to set up a tent encampment.”

Amman is also the center of other political, religious, and social tensions. Jordan's Salafist movement, who rigid and conservative views about Islam and the prominent role it should play in Jordanian society are jumping on the momentum of the secular demonstrations and holding their own marches. Also, in the wake of the violence in Gaza and Pro-Palestinian groups have also been active and staging demonstrations around the Israeli borders.

All to say there is definitely a lot going on. Don’t worry mom, I plan on taking Amideast’s latest e-mail to heart:

“Advice!!!!! Avoid all protests. Use caution around prominent places of worship, which may be gathering points for demonstrators. Allow additional time for travel.”

Perhaps a bit dramatic, but I’m certainly not naïve enough to think a white chick can just jump into the political landscape and start demanding human rights for Jordanians (no matter where my convictions may lie.)

Instead I will be watching intently as these protests progress and asking A LOT of questions. I’m interested to see what the news covers (or maybe leaves out?) How do young Jordanians, whose future jobs, homes, and aspirations hang in the balance, view the changes that their country is moving towards?